Softer centreboards
Has anyone (around 80kgs) played around with softer centreboards?
Thanks
Spod
Has anyone (around 80kgs) played around with softer centreboards?
Thanks
Spod
So after 25 years of not dinghy sailing i bought a great Solo 4688. Lovely boat and I have been upgrading all the lines. Yesterday I decided to have a little blast in a F5/6. Brilliant, but having been dumped out the back on a broach, It went turtle quickly and I got it back upright okay but I found I could not get back in the dam thing. The wind was blowing the windward side that high I could not climb aboard. Climbing in over the leeward side would have dumped it in again. No I know I am not fit and perhaps a little rounder than I used to be but has any one got any tips on how to rig the righting lines to aide getting back in?
I will be hitting the gym for some upper body work before the season starts again.
Any advice would…
Hi, just seen your post. This can be a problem as the newer boats appear to sit higher in the water. Apart from righting lines I now have a line connected to the rear of the centre board casing with a plastic stirrup at the other end which can be pulled down in the water and used to provide greater leverage. It does work!
I'm considering a restoration project on an early (2002) Winder Mk 1.
My question is this:
Has anyone had to resort to mast cut outs to deliver competitive mast rake?
Has the front bulkhead position changed?
What changed when the design was re-decked (1a) ?
I don't think there are any problems with bulkhead position on early Winder 1 hulls. Have several at my Club and they go well. The bulkhead is not a problem a sit is at least 3060+ from transom, I believe it is 3065mm. Later 1a is 3070mm afaik. Also the step position is pretty high relative to sheerline and back of gate is min measurement. You may still need to cut the back of a new mast if it is long (fore/aft) to get good balance. This also relies on the c/board position and leading edge (ie the CLR of boat).
There are boats of this manufacture that work well with both cut outs and no cut outs. Extreme rake will also giver a very low boom if the sail is anywhere near max leech length. Most of the tuning guides are in the ball park but remember they are guides and be prepared to fiddle a bit to optimise.
As for scooping on tacks IMHO it is a red herring, high freeboard is your best friend here... I expect to get flak for that thinking, but am prepared to take it.
Hello all, I have recently started sailing a solo at club level racing (Southshields). There is quite a strong laser dinghy presence and some solos which is great. The last race I did was very challenging - I could not get the solo to point to windward as high as the other racers and trying to figure out why. It seemed I could only get power heading 10-20 degrees further down wind than the rest of the fleet.
I suspect that my settings were not correct. It was a good breeze 15-18 knots with gusts of 25-30 (probably the strongest I have sailed in yet). I had the kicker on as hard as I could, the same with the outhaul and the cunningham too. The one factor I did not try (as I was too busy enjoying all the rolling and spilling caused by wind over tide) was the center…
Solo is all about balance, and keeping the helm light. Sail flat upwind and trim the centre plate to keep the helm light. You should be aiming to have the end of the boom somewhere over the side deck at the transom, if it is very windy even further out. North guide is pretty spot on, but probably worth talking to your sailmaker how they recommend setting up. It is possible to over kicker some sails when it is windy, you can usually tell if the bottom batten inverts behind the mast.
Thanks David. My old Miles is up with the new Winders in the light stuff and I am often in my Osprey when its windy. But its useful to hear that I am not alone in finding the " old" cumulus a bit of a challenge when irs bliowing hard