winder 1

Geoff, have a look here ref centreboard control lines: https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100064599675330

I would add to TIm's comments that I, like others, let the inhaul off every time I round the windward mark, and pull it on at the leeward. Apart from an initial adjustment of the outhaul to get the depth of sail right, I rarely touch it, probably the only reason to adjust is to go into a super pointy mode, or to get a bit more power to punch through chop. So if it were me I would be prioritising inhaul over outhaul, which you could easily have as a cleat on the boom and set it up before the start. With the traveller a default position is to have (if it is a Harken track) the first bolt just showing, and bring the car to the centreline when conditions are over powering, you don't really need a continuous system to do this. I would echo Tim's point that a Milanese centreboard or a Winder centreboard should be restorable, though it is not unheard of for them to break if they have lost their structural integrity.

The real advantage of continuous kicker, Cunningham, inhaul and outhaul is that you don't get all the tail on the wrong side of the boat, before continuous systems I used to have to make sure all lines were pretty much the same before rounding a mark. If I sailed inland I wouldn't bother with a continuous centreboard control, but just make sure it is calibrated for repeatable settings. On a big course, the ability to adjust the centreboard to balance the helm without leaning into the boat is probably a bit more important.

Anyway, the great thing with a Solo is that there is scope to tinker ...

Hi, I have recently also bought a MK1 and have been thinking about some of the mods you are considering. I was also looking at an older MK1, maybe the one you bought (mine is 10 years old so no spring chicken!), and did some reading about the Milanes foils that the early boats were supplied with - apparenty pretty good and, having used Milanes foils on other classes, I wouldn't be rushing to change ithem (expensive and, for me at least a marginal gain at best, the Milanes profiles of that era are very good). Milanes do a reasonably priced refurb service although rebuilding the edges isn't that hard for a DIYer either (I have done it and can't claim any great skill!).

My boat has three holes drilled for continuous control lines and I'm thinking of using screw in contol line bullseyes if I add more as it will be simpler, and provide more options.

Like you, I am also looking at the inhaul. My plan is to add an additional cleat each side on the flat part where the cleats for the toe strap are. However, I think I'm going to mock up an inhaul control first and see what its effect is - I have focused on maximising the travel on the outhaul (added some elastic) and this has a massive effect. I have only owned my boat just over a fortnight so I haven't adjusted the cunningham or the kicker in anger so I am going to see what effect they have (I know what they do, I just want to see if I really need more adjustability - it might be better to just focus on sailing the boat) before getting too focused on the inhaul).

As a halfway house you could use a Clam Cleat Q-Lok which would allow you to adjust the inhaul but only between races. I appreciate that you may want to tweak it all the time so this approach won't be adequate.

I very much like the idea of adding centreboard controls as that is something I would like to be able to adjust on the fly from a hiked position - maybe someone can share a rigging diagram?

I would also like to see a rigging diagram for a continuous traveller system. The trend seems to be away from doing too much with the traveller but I would like to only have to set it on one tack and for that setting to be automatically replicated on the opposite tack.

Final thought. If you need to free up cleats, you can change your toe strap adjustment to use an inline Clam Cleat which can be attached from the thwart - my boat has a suitable spare hole on each side. The model is CL828-68AN. I don't adjust my toe straps that much, if at all, so I don;t really need to take up a cleat position.

Apologies for the very long response but I thought I'd share the fruits of my research. I haven't done any modifications yet as I have only sailed the boat twice (both times in Opens) and I think there are plenty of speed gains I can make from simply sailing better!

Please keep us posted here as I'd be interested to see what you end up doing - especially if you can share pix/diagram of your centreboard solution.

Ref 1. Would suggest you avoid drilling into the capping unless you have very sharp drills, and don't mind breaking them. Winders use an ash filler that is like concrete. Dave W showed me his latest boat, which has everything forward of the traveller.

Ref 2. I suspect Winders are the best price, and stand the best chance of fitting in your case. I believe they have recently upgraded their foil design.

Ref. 3. No I haven't bur the Winder continuous centreboard system doesn't need a cleat, and have seen run through an eye doubled up on the forward control line cleat. Presumably you could run the inhaul onto the pad on the forward face of the thwart?