A Basic Guide To Setting Up Your Solo
Paul Kimmens – May 07
Section 2 - Basic Set-up On Shore
Please remember that the settings suggested in this section are a guide and over a period of time you will
undoubtedly find that you will need to tweak them to suit your boat.
Mast Position
Step the mast in the boat but do not connect the forestay or shrouds and do not hoist the sail. Measure the distance
from the front face of the mast to the outside face of the transom keeping the tape measure in contact with the
floor of the boat. This measurement should be approx 3055mm. Adjust the mast foot position accordingly.
Check that the mast is a snug fit in the mast gate and that there is no sideways movement. If there is movement add
some packing pieces to the mast or mast slot (This could be as simple as putting some insulation tape around the mast).
Also check that with the mast at one end of the slot the gap at the other end is no more than 26mm.
Using the main halyard check that the mast is vertical as follows:- pull the halyard tight to a point on the port side
of the boat. Note the position of the halyard. Now do the same on the starboard side of the boat. If the mast is vertical
the halyard should touch the same point on each side of the boat. If there is a difference the mast may be bent or the
mast foot may need moving to one side slightly.
Forestay
Without the sail hoisted gently push the mast towards the back of the boat until the mast touches the rear of the mast
slot in the foredeck. The forestay should just be tight. Adjust the forestay accordingly. Once you have the correct
adjustment mark the forestay adjuster with a permanent marker as a reference point.
Shrouds
Push the mast gently forwards and the shrouds should become tight when the mast is approx 5mm from the front of the mast
slot. Once you have the correct adjustment mark the shroud adjusters with a permanent marker as a reference point.
Boom
Put the boom onto the gooseneck and check that the top edge of the boom is in line or above the top edge of band No 1
on the mast (see diagram 1)
Sail
Hoist the sail and check that the top of the sail is in line or below the lower edge of band No2 on the mast. (see diagram 1).
If you have a rope halyard you may initially need to hoist the sail above band No2 as the halyard will stretch a little
under the weight of the sail and mainsheet tension.
Centre Board
Roll the boat onto its gunwale and pull the centre down until the leading edge is perpendicular to the underside of the hull.
With a permanent marker pen (or something similar) mark the handle of the centreboard and the top of the centreboard case so
that you can accurately position the centre board. Now move the centreboard aft until the trailing edge is perpendicular to
the hull and make another mark on the centreboard handle/case.
Finally move the centre board aft until the leading edge is approximately 45 degrees to the hull (half up, or half down
depending on your outlook on life!) and mark the handle and case again.
When sailing you now have three reference points for setting the position of the centreboard.
Control Lines
Control lines do just what they say, they provide control. Therefore it is important that all of the control lines and associated
fittings work reliably and smoothly.
Old ropes and fittings are perfectly acceptable if they are good condition and are fully serviceable. A worn rope or unreliable
fitting will slow you down because you will spend time with your head in the boat trying to sort it out rather than concentrating
on boat speed/direction.
The control lines should ideally be a good quality non-stretch rope (e.g. something with a 'Dyneema' core) such that you can make
accurate adjustments. Ropes that stretch will mean that your adjustments will not be as accurate.
For Kicker, Cunningham and Outhaul the control lines are typically between 3mm and 5mm in diameter depending on your preference
(the thinner the rope the more it cuts into your hand!). It is also a good idea to have different colours for each control so
that they are easy to identify.
The mainsheet will typically be between 6mm and 10mm and ideally you want a mainsheet that provides good grip, runs through the
blocks easily and resists kinks and twists (e.g. Rooster Mainsheet)
For all control lines make sure that any fittings such as blocks, pulleys and cleats are the correct size for the size of rope.
It's no good buying a nice new main sheet if it chafes on the side of a pulley block.
Also make sure that all of the control lines are long enough such that there is still some spare control line for you to grab
when let fully out. It is a good idea to put a stopper knot on the end of the control line about 6" from the end so that even
if the stopper knot is jammed hard up against a cleat you still have some control to pull on.
Your local chandler will be able to provide help and advice on selecting the correct type of rope and fittings for the job.
It is a good idea to mark the control lines (kicker, cunningham and outhaul) to indicate full on, full off and midpoint. Depending
on your control line configuration and type you can use whipping line, tape, or a permanent marker or Tipex on wire strops to
mark the control lines.
A key point here is to ensure that you put the marks so that they are easily visible whilst sailing and that they provide a
repeatable reference point. (e.g. if you have dual controls there is no point putting marks on the dual control lines as they
will not provide a reference point. The reference marks need to go onto the control lines where there is a single point of movement)
Try and align the marks with an easy reference point on the boat (i.e. deck line at the back of the mast). Place marks when the
control is full on, full off and mid point.
Over a period of time you will identify the best settings for your controls for various points of sailing/conditions and can
repeatedly make these adjustments using the reference points.
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