A Basic Guide To Setting Up Your Solo

Section 1 - Assessing The Boat

You are probably 'champing at the bit' to go sailing in your new boat but a bit of time assessing the condition now could save a lot of time and expense later . I suggest you undertake the assessment in the following order and if possible ask a fellow Solo helm to give you a hand and the benefit of their experience:-

The Mast / Boom
Before you put the mast into the boat give it a good 'once over' to check for any damage or wear. Once you have put it in the boat you will rarely get a close up view of the top section of the mast so do it now.

Look for any obvious signs of damage such as bends, stress marks, corrosion, missing rivets, screws, etc. Pay particular attention to the forestay and shroud tangs (if fitted). These are stainless steel plates riveted to the mast to which the forestay and shrouds are attached. They take a lot of stress and if they break you are likely to end up with a bent mast. (Note: some masts have T slot fittings instead of tangs). Also check that the track for the sail is clean and smooth.

Small bends in a mast can be corrected by bending the mast back into shape across a couple of benches or tables. Do check for signs of stress though as the mast will be weakened by repetitive bending and straightening.

Check the gooseneck fitting for wear and also check pulleys, sheaves and cleats for smooth operation and secure fitting.

It is also worth checking the main sail halyard for wear especially the part of the halyard that runs over the pulley at the top of the mast when the sail is fully hoisted. This section of the halyard takes a lot of strain and is the area most likely to break. If you have a rope halyard and it looks worn in this area a simple solution is to chop off approx 12" thus removing the worn section (assuming that the halyard is still long enough!) or you can 'top and tail' the halyard by removing it and feeding it back in the other way around.

While the mast is on the ground check the measurements of the 'coloured' bands (note these are commonly called the black bands but can be any colour). There should be two bands on the mast. The upper edge of band No1 shall not be less than 952mm from the heel. The lower edge of band No2 shall not be more than 5982mm above the heel. There is no minimum or maximum dimension for the width of the coloured bands. See diagram 1.

Finally try and identify the type of mast. It is important to match the mast and sail to your body weight to get the best out of your boat. Appendix A lists various types of common Solo masts and how to identify them.

Having checked the mast do a similar check of the boom. (Note: unlike the mast the type of boom makes little difference). A coloured band shall be painted on the boom such that when the boom is fitted on the gooseneck at 90 degrees to the mast the inner edge of the band shall be not more than 2693mm from the aft edge of the sail track/mast.

The top edge of the boom needs to be in line or above the top edge of band 1. Older masts may have an adjustable gooseneck. Newer masts tend to have a fixed position gooseneck.

The Hull
While the boat is still on its trolley check the inside of the hull, side tank and decks for any obvious damage. Open the hatch covers and have a good smell. If the tanks smell damp and musty there may be a problem with water getting into them.

Check all of the fittings to ensure that they are securely fitted and operate smoothly. A quick spray of WD40 will help make pulley block and cleats operate smoothly

Check all sheets and ropes for wear.

It is worth noting that you don't necessarily need the latest lightweight fittings but you do need fittings that work properly.

Fit the mast and shrouds, lift the boat onto the ground and then using the shrouds pull it over onto one of the gunwales. Make sure that you are on soft ground or alternatively use a boat cover or sail bag under the boat to prevent damage to the gunwale and chines as you roll the boat over.

With the boat on its side you can have a good look at the underside of the hull. Ideally you want a clean, smooth, hull. If there are any big scratches fill them with marine or gel coat filler (car filler absorbs water!) and rub them down. A smooth clean hull is obviously better than a dirty scratched and damaged hull.

Next check the slot gasket. It should just overlap and form a good seal all the way along the centreboard case opening. A missing or damaged slot gasket will really slow the boat down and should be replaced.

The Foils
With the boat still on its side lower the centreboard and check it for obvious sides of wear and damage. The leading edge should be smooth and round and the trailing edge should have sharp edges. Any small nicks and scratches should be filled with epoxy resin or similar material and rubbed down to a smooth finish. It is amazing how much turbulence and drag a small nick on the leading or trailing edge can create.

With the centreboard fully down try and wiggle the board from side to side. The board should be a snug fit in the centreboard case with no sideways movement. The more it wiggles the less effective it will be. If there is sideways movement remove the centreboard and stick packing pieces on either side to reduce the wiggling. CD's and overhead projector acetates make ideal packing materials. See the handy hints section on how to remove the centreboard.

Now check the rudder stock and tiller for obvious signs of wear and damage. The leading edge should be smooth and round and the trailing edge should have sharp edges. The rudder should be a snug fit in the stock with no sideways movement. If it is loose in the stock try tightening the pivot bolt a little or add packing pieces to the rudder.

Fit the stock/rudder to the boat and check that the rudder/stock moves freely on the pintles but there is no sideways movement.

With the rudder fitted and the centreboard fully down go to the front of the boat and look down the hull towards the back of the boat and check that the rudder and centreboard are in line.

Note: Whilst the boat is on its side it is a good opportunity to make some marks on the centre board handle to indicate the position of the board when it is down. Pull the centreboard down until the leading edge is perpendicular to the underside of the hull. With a permanent marker pen (or something similar) mark the handle of the centreboard and the top of the centreboard case so that you can accurately position the centreboard. Now move the centreboard aft until the trailing edge is perpendicular to the hull and make another mark on the centreboard handle/case.

Finally move the centreboard aft until the leading edge is approximately 45 degrees to the hull (half up, or half down depending on your outlook on life!) and mark the handle and case again.

When sailing you now have three reference points for setting the position of the centreboard.

The Sail
Put the boat back on the trolley and hoist the sail. As you hoist the sail check for any obvious signs of wear and tear especially at the joins, ends of batten pockets and around the bolt rope. Any minor damage can be repaired with self-adhesive sail tape.

The sail is the engine of a boat and as a sail gets older it looses it shape and performance drops off. If your sail is in bad shape you should aim to replace it. A good second hand sail will be perfectly adequate for club sailing, there is no need to purchase a brand new sail.

The Trolley
Why check the trolley? It won't make your boat go faster! Of course your trolley will not make your boat go faster but your boat will probably spend more time on its trolley than on the water so you should check that it supports and cushions the boat without damaging it.

Additionally check that the wheels/tyres are in good order and the boat balances nicely on the trolley. It is significantly more tiring pulling a boat that is out of balance and/or has flat trolley wheels or wheels that don't rotate easily. The boat might be in good shape but by the time you reach the water you may not be!

Buoyancy Test
It is always a good idea to do a buoyancy test before you take the boat out sailing for the first time. It is a bit late to discover a buoyancy problem when you are a long way from the shore!

To do buoyancy test get a friend to help. Make sure all the bungs and hatch covers are fitted and then capsize the boat near the shore or near a jetty and get your friend to hang onto the end of the mast to stop you drifting.

Climb up onto the gunwale and sit on the side of the boat for ten minutes. Capsize the boat onto the other side and do the same again.

Bring the boat ashore and check that the buoyancy tanks are dry. There may be some water in the tanks but significant amounts of water indicate a leak which should be rectified.

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